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Big Island Highlights
Volcanoes, Kona coffee and more on the Orchid Isle
Legend has it that two deities — the volcano goddess Pele and the demi-god Kamapua'a (the latter of whom could control the weather) — struck a deal to make the vast Big Island of Hawaii's west side so dry, and its east side so wet. The story's short version is that, after a battle, the pair divided the island in two, with Pele taking the western half and Kamapua'a, the eastern.
Climate & Geography
Even so, the island's weather isn't so cut-and-dried. Twelve distinct climate zones exist here, ranging from East Hawaii's tropical rain forests and Mauna Kea's frozen tundra to Ka'u's arid desert in the south.
Covering 4,028 square miles, the Big Island (or the "Orchid Isle") is the youngest and largest of the Hawaiian Islands — twice the size of all the other major Islands combined. And with two of the five volcanoes that created the island still active, it continues to grow: Kilauea Caldera is the longest continuously erupting volcano in the world, its present eruptive phase dating back to 1983; Mauna Loa, meanwhile, last erupted in March of 1984, sending lava to within a few miles of East Hawaii's Hilo town. Of the remaining three volcanoes on the island, Mauna Kea and Kohala are extinct, while Hualalai is considered to be dormant, having last erupted in 1801.
Points of Interest
Until recently, upcountry Waimea's Parker Ranch was the largest privately owned cattle ranch in the world, and ranching and agriculture continue to be the Big Island's economic mainstays — particularly beef, Kona coffee, macadamia nuts, fruits and tropical flowers. Resorts and most residential developments are located in coastal areas such as Hilo, Kailua-Kona, and the Kohala Coast, leaving much of island's interior untouched.
Each year the Big Island plays host to a number of world-renowned festivals and sports events, the most notable being the Merrie Monarch Hula Festival (in Hilo each April), the Ironman Triathlon World Championships (in Kona every October) and the Kona Coffee Cultural Festival in November.
What's More ...
• Though the average temperature on the Big Island ranges from 71 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit in the coastal regions (with temperatures in the low 70s October through April), the summits of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa are often blanketed with snow.
• Average annual rainfall ranges from 10 inches at Kawaihae (near the west-facing Kohala Coast) to 128 inches at the Hilo Airport.
• Fifteen miles off the island's southeast coast yet another volcano, Lo'ihi, is erupting 3,000 feet below the surface of the ocean. While it will still be several thousand years before this volcano breaks the sea's surface, it has already risen more than 10,000 feet from the sea floor and has a crater that measures three miles across.
• Kamehameha the Great, who unified the Hawaiian Islands under one king for the first time in 1810, is believed to have been born in the Big Island's North Kohala area.
• Captain James Cook, who is widely considered to be the first European to set foot in the Hawaiian Islands, was killed at Kona's Kealakekua Bay in 1779.
• The Big Island's official flower is the lehua 'ohi'a
• The island's official color is red
Kailua-Kona:
Cradle of Modern Hawaii Within the span of two blocks in downtown Kailua-Kona, it's possible to traverse some of the most important moments in Hawaii's history, from the unification of the Islands under one ruler to the arrival of Christianity and beyond. It begins at Ahu'ena Heiau, a scaled-down replica of a temple site that served as King Kamehameha I's governmental capital for the last seven years of his life, from 1812 to 1819. Located next to the Kailua pier at the beach fronting the King Kamehameha Hotel, Ahu'ena was originally part of a larger compound known as Kamakahonu, which Kamehameha rebuilt as a personal temple to Lono, the god of peace and prosperity.
It is not merely coincidence that the first wave of protestant missionaries arrived in Hawaii in 1820 — it wasn't until after Kamehameha I's death that the ancient system of beliefs began to be questioned. The void these doubts created provided the opportunity for missionaries to establish their first settlements in the Islands. Standing on the Kailua pier near Ahu'ena Heiau, one can look across a short expanse of Kailua Bay and see Moku'aikaua — the first Christian church constructed in Hawaii. Begun in 1835 and completed in 1837, the present stone structure replaced a thatched roof church that had initially been erected at the same site in 1820. One hundred twenty feet long and 48 feet wide, the lava-rock walled church features a steeple that stands 112 feet tall. All of its interior posts and beams are made of native 'ohi'a wood, while the pews, pulpit and interior paneling are of now-rare koa wood.
Directly across the street from Moku'aikaua stands Hulihe'e Palace, which was completed a year after the church, in 1838. Like Moku'aikaua, Hulihe'e Palace was built by seamen, under the direction of Hawaii governor John Adams Kuakini. In fact, in its initial form the palace looked much like its across-the-street neighbor, having been constructed from the same lava rock materials used for the church. The palace served as the principal residence for Kuakini until his death in 1844, at which point it passed to his adopted son, William Pitt Leleiohoku, and then to Leleiohoku's wife, Princess Ruth 'Luka 'Ke'elikolani.
During Princess Ruth's lifetime the palace became a favorite retreat of the royal families, and would later pass to Bernice Pauahi Bishop before being purchased by King David Kalakaua and Queen Kapi'olani, who had the building extensively renovated. Today the palace is on the National Register of Historic Places. Now a museum, it serves as a living piece of Monarchy-era history, with much of its interior furnishings dating from those years. Both Moku'aikaua and Hulihe'e Palace are open to visitors — the church for free during daylight hours; the palace,
Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Guided palace tours are offered throughout the day, as are occasional concerts and other special events.
Heeeeere’s Kona!
Hawaii Volcano National Park
Like a late night talk show, Kailua-Kona welcomes a variety of guests to its sunny, sometimes funky entertaining ambience: world class triathletes for Ironman in October, champion fishermen from August’s International Billfish Tournament, beermeisters, coffee tasters and chocoholics during their respective Festivals, plus cruise ship passengers, honeymooners, multigenerational families, golf groups, film crews, backpackers, scuba divers, naturalists, conventioneers and vacationers from all walks of life any day of the week. There’s no excuse for being bored in Kona.
A place that loves change, it’s home to the last royal residence of Kamehameha the Great, Hawaii’s first ordained Christian Church, and one of the last homes of its modern monarchy – all within sight of each other. South of town is Kealakekua Bay where Captain James Cook first set foot on the island in 1778 and where he was killed. Nearby Pu`uhonua o Honaunau is a well-restored Hawaiian village from pre-contact days, complete with thatch-roof hale (huts) and heiau guarded by imposing tiki.
But Kona offers a lot more than history. This is the place to use some of the most interesting verbs in the present tense: swim, snorkel, scuba dive, sail, surf and seek your place in the sun. Shop till you drop, dine, dance and celebrate the day. Explore, adventure, energize your body or relax, reflect retreat and restore. If you want to do it all, this is the place.
Hike to Waterfalls and Rainforests
The Big Island is one of the most exciting and diverse hiking destinations imaginable. Some of the most challenging hikes in the Hawaiian islands are located here. This vast island is networked with trails from the seashore to the mountaintops, and plenty of places in between. They vary from easy, well-marked trails in maintained parks, to steep rugged trails along high crumbling cliffs, to sacred spots that require special permission and are best accessed with the help of a tour guide. Hawaii Forest & Trail offers guided tours to Hawai Volcanoes National Park as well as numerous adventures to remote spots, including a narrow cliff-side trail under a waterfall and rainforest bird watching adventures. Both half- and full-day trips are available for small groups. All equipment and catered lunches are provided. Paniolo Adventures leads half-day hikes across parts of a 11,000-acre working cattle ranch. Trails lead you through pasture lands surrounded by spectacular coastline and mountain views, and into the lush rain forest. Knowledgeable guides narrate your hike, adding lessons and legends to your adventure.
Taste Kona Coffee All Day Long!
Take 600 specialty coffee farms, a spattering of mills, retail outlets and museums, then cluster them in 20 miles of scenic country roads, and you've got the perfect excuse for a self-drive coffee tasting tour. Akin to Northern California's popular wine tasting tours, here the brew of the day is Kona coffee. Grown on the mountain slopes above Kailua-Kona, it is the only place in the world where certified Kona coffee is grown.
Most people begin the tour from Kailua town and travel south to Honaunau. Take Palani Road (Hwy. 190) out of Kailua-Kona to Mamalahoa Highway (Hwy. 180). Turn south onto Mamalahoa towards Holualoa. Before you reach the tiny mountain village of Holualoa, you'll find the Ueshima Coffee Company's Kona Coffee Estate. The pretty roadside kiosk overlooks its coffee trees and offers a stunning view of the ocean. Continuing south into Holualoa, you'll see the Ferrari Coffee Visitor Center.
You can't miss the place. It's across the street from the 1920s-era, hot pink Kona Hotel. Less than a mile down the road, you'll come to Kona Blue Sky Coffee Company, a large 500-acre estate that offers tours without reservations. Farther south on Hwy. 180, turn into Holualoa Coffee Company. Driving up the narrow road to the farm, you'll be hit with the delicious aroma of roasting coffee, a scent you'll forever associate with Kona. Continue south on Mamalahoa Highway (Hwy. 11) through the quaint towns of Honalo and Kainaliu to the Kona Mountain Cafe in Kealakekua where you can sit and enjoy coffee, pastries and sandwiches.
At the bottom of Napo'opo'o Road is UCC's Espresso Bar and Roastery where you can roast your own private label coffee. The next stop is historic Greenwell Farms, situated on 35 acres of prime land at an elevation of 1,500 feet. This estate is operated by the descendants of Henry Nicholas Greenwell, an early pioneer in Kona coffee exporting. The Greenwell Store Museum in Kealakekua contains a revolving display that makes it easy to grasp the exacting, labor-intensive process from Kona bean to cup.
The Kona Coffee Living History Farm, on Mamalahoa Highway in Captain Cook, across from the 110-mile marker, offers a chance to experience the unique lifestyle of island coffee farms. The 1913 homestead has been preserved by the Kona Historical Society. It is listed on both State and National Registers for Historic Places. Small group tours are available by advance reservation. Interpretive guides in period costumes greet visitors and lead hands-on tours of the farm's historic farmhouse, the processing mill, drying roofs, and a traditional Japanese bathhouse.
Discover Eden in Waipio Valley
In the beginning there was Waipi'o Valley, a place of such sheer beauty that it could only have been conceived by the most benevolent and creative of all the gods of nature. Located north of the town of Honoka'a along the Hamakua Coast, the valley is the largest and southernmost of the seven valleys on the windward side of the Kohala Mountains. A mile wide at the coast and almost six miles deep, the Eden-like valley is sheltered by cliffs reaching almost 2,000 feet. Waterfalls and flowers cascade from the walls of the cliffs and a stunning black sand beach defines the coastal area.
Though the valley was once inhabited from 4,000 to 10,000 people, now only a handful of taro farmers and fishermen reside there year round, and human activity is largely confined to tourists. Reaching the valley, which is accessed by a steep road with a 25 percent grade, is difficult at best. All vehicular access is limited to four-wheel drive vehicles, and car rental companies prohibit use of their vehicles on the road.
But Waipi'o Na'alapa Stables offers horseback rides across the valley floor and Waipio Valley Shuttle conducts four-wheel drive tours into the valley. Waipi'o, which means "curved water," is known as the 'Valley of the Kings' because it was once home to many early Hawaiian rulers and is said to be the place where King Kamehameha the Great received his training.
Not surprisingly, the valley is considered a sacred place to Hawaiians. Ancient burial caves are located in the walls of the cliffs and many ancient myths, chants and songs originate in Waipi'o. Although early Hawaiians were the first to inhabit the valley, in the late 1800s many Chinese settlers came to live there. They built schools, churches, restaurants, a post office and a jail. Most of them left following a devastating tsunami in 1946 that pushed huge waves into the back of the valley. The easiest and most accessible view of Waipi'o is from the scenic point at the end of Route 240 about 10 miles outside of Honoka'a.
While a visit to the valley floor has its obvious rewards, the view from the top holds plenty of merit. Three companies offer a wonderful array of choices. Each provides access to areas untouched by the others. Hawaiian Walkways offers daily hiking tours on the valley rim trails and stream-side paths to seldom-seen waterfalls and pools. Waipi'o Ridge Stables leads horseback rides along the valley's edge to hidden waterfalls. And Kukui ATV Adventures offers guided tours in all-terrain vehicles along the top ridges where spectacular views abound. Hikers should know that it takes about 15 minutes to hike down the road into the valley. The return trip, of course, will take much longer.
Tour operators are not allowed to take visitors to the beach, but you're free to make your way there on foot. The waters at the mouth of the valley are volatile at best, therefore extreme caution is advised when crossing the river or entering the ocean. Much of the valley floor is private land, so show courtesy and respect for the owners' property. A word of caution: There are no public facilities in the valley. One more cardinal rule: Pack it in, pack it out.'
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Hilo | With few tourists, it's how Hawaii used to be
The Orange County Register
BRUCE CHAMBERS / MCCLATCHY NEWSPAPERS
The Shipman House, built in 1899, on Reed's Island in Hilo, Hawaii, is one of the state's few remaining Victorian mansions.
If you go
Getting there
It's about a three-hour drive from the Big Island's main visitor town of Kailua-Kona to Hilo. Both have airports.
Where to stay
• Shipman House. A rambling Victorian house refurbished as a bed-and-breakfast. 800-627-8447 or www.hilo-hawaii.com/
• Waterfalls Inn Bed & Breakfast is another good B&B. 808-969-3407 or www.waterfallsinn.com
• Hilo Hawaiian Hotel. The best among the unspectacular Banyan Drive hotels. 808-935-9361 or www.castleresorts.com/
Sights
• Pacific Tsunami Museum, 808-935-0926 or www.tsunami.org/.
• Imiloa Astronomy Center, 808-969-9700 or www.imiloahawaii.org
• Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden, scenic walkways and plantings, about 8 miles north of Hilo. 808-964-5233 or www.hawaiigarden.com
• Lyman Museum in the heart of Hilo has natural and cultural displays plus the historic Lyman Mission House. 808-935-5021 or www.lymanmuseum.org
More information:
• Big Island Visitors Bureau, 808-961-5797 or www.bigisland.org.
• The Hawaii Convention and Visitors Bureau covers all the islands,; 800-464-2924 or www.gohawaii.com.
Orange County Register
and Chicago Tribune
"The Volcano of Mauna Loa was given a grand exhibition of Natural Pyrotechnics. The eruption is described as the most extensive which has taken place in these Islands. The last accounts fears were entertained that the beautiful town of Hilo would be destroyed by the molten river, which was coursing its way hitherward. The scene is described as one of awful sublimity and grandeur."
— The New York Times, April 28, 1852
It is only fitting that the first significant mention of Hilo in America's newspaper of record was of its impending doom.
Sharing space with three volcanoes, rocked by earthquakes, swamped by tidal waves, infested with diseased bugs, and under the very real threat of attack by a foreign power, the Hawaiian island town of Hilo has endured much hardship over the decades.
But what turned Hilo into a low-ranking destination for most mainland visitors was not a catastrophe, but something that happens every week, sometimes every day — the rain
In Hilo, it rains a lot — about 129 inches a year.
So when millionaire Laurance Rockefeller opened his luxurious Mauna Kea resort in 1965 (currently closed because of earthquake damage last year) on the sun-baked Kona side of the Big Island, the eyes and wallets of tourists turned west.
Hilo was left behind as a quieter, slower, less showy slice of Hawaii, where the best beds aren't in hotels but in B&Bs and where the rain is loved for creating rushing waterfalls and lush gardens.
"Being from the Seattle area, we can handle a little rain," said visitor Peter Berg of Coupeville, Whidbey Island. "Everything is just so green and beautiful on this side of the Big Island."
Slowing down
I usually start my trip to Hilo by cruising along Banyan Drive. The pavement buckles a bit from the roots of the huge old banyan trees that were planted in Hilo's tourism heyday by visiting celebrities. There are trees installed by Babe Ruth and Amelia Earhart, but you can measure Hilo's fall from favor by the fact that one of the last trees planted was by Richard Nixon. Many of the nameplates are sadly in need of repair.
When I first visited Hilo two decades ago, the hotels along Banyan Drive were also the main place to stay in town. But while the Kona side of the Big Island boasts many four-diamond AAA resorts, Hilo's offerings top out at two diamonds. Some of the hotels don't even meet the auto club's minimum standards anymore.
Hilo, home to about 4,000 people, has always been a center of Japanese culture in Hawaii. Unfortunately, the once-famous Suisan public fish market has closed. But another good stop is the 30-acre park just beyond Banyan Drive. Although it is named after Hawaiian Queen Liliuokalani, the garden is laid out in a traditional Japanese style with gazebos and a teahouse. A bridge takes strollers out to Coconut Island, with pretty views of the city across the harbor.
A story of disasters
The 14,000-foot Mauna Loa volcano and Hilo Bay are the source of much viewing pleasure today, but each has dealt punishing blows to Hilo over the years. The volcano has threatened the city many times. Earthquakes frequently rumble through the area, the latest just last year, though damage was heavier on the Kona side of the island.
The most serious harm to Hilo has come from the sea. In 1946, a tsunami from Alaska swept across the bay and smashed the city, killing 96. Another massive tidal wave pulsing up from Chile slammed ashore in 1960, killing 61. Thirty-foot-long chunks of bayside curbing were found up to 350 feet inland. Hilo's downtown was rebuilt farther from the bay to lessen the impact of future tsunamis.
The story of the sea and the volcanoes that have shaped Hilo are told in two museums.
The Pacific Tsunami Museum, in an old bank building on Kamehameha Avenue, explains how the waves are generated and why Hilo's geography has made the city so susceptible to the killer waves. The exhibition includes a half-hour video of residents' recollections of the tsunamis. Exhibitions include one on the catastrophic 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami.
The Imiloa Astronomy Center on Hilo's University of Hawaii campus tells the story of Mauna Kea, especially the astronomical work done atop what is the highest mountain in the world, if you count total height from sea floor to summit (much of it is under water). You also can get information on visiting the observatory.
"How Hawaii used to be"
Downtown Hilo is fun to stroll because, unlike Waikiki in Oahu or Lahaina on Maui, it's a mix of shops that cater to tourists and locals.
"It reminds me of how Hawaii used to be," said Adrienne Skinner, of Larchmont, N.Y. "I came through for the first time in 1956. There were no Wal-Marts in Hawaii back then. I come back to Hilo because it isn't a tourist area. If it rains, there are plenty of consignment shops to keep me busy."
Downtown has become trendier in recent years.
One famous spot is Sig Zane Designs, whose offbeat textiles have been popular well beyond the Big Island. There are even a few fashionable restaurants like Kaikodo that offer Pacific-rim fusion food. But you'll usually find me out at Seaside Restaurant, whose tasty aholehole fish is grown in the aqua farm next door. It's not to everyone's taste. My traveling companion opted for the opakapaka, a Hawaiian version of snapper.
Staying at the mansion
I've been to Hilo five times, and this was the first visit where I didn't check into a hotel. Instead I turned inland to Kaiulani Street, home to bed and breakfasts that are the best choice among limited options for visitors to the city.
I stopped by Waterfalls Inn Bed & Breakfast, which ischarming and relaxing, with five rooms arrayed around a fern-drenched garden with waterfalls.
But I opted to stay down the street at the Shipman House, a rambling, white Victorian-era mansion that also has five rooms. It's owned by Barbara Andersen, a descendant of the original owner.
"We're not in competition with Kona," Andersen said. "We don't want to be Kona. We don't need the chain stores to take over."
The upside of the Shipman House is that it is filled with plantation-era memorabilia of museum quality that is among the best I've seen in the islands.
The downside for some visitors might be the feeling that you are staying in someone's home and also a museum, with areas off-limits and lots of look-don't-touch spots.
As an amateur historian, I loved it. My favorite spot was the wide, curving porch, where I could pick up a Wi-Fi signal on my laptop. It was a wonderful juxtaposition of the 19th and 21st centuries.
Even if you aren't into Hilo's slightly worn, tropical-urban scene, it's a better choice than Kona for some visitors simply because of its proximity to the island's natural wonders.
From the city, it's a shorter drive up to the town of Volcano and Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Hilo also is closer to the famous northeast coast waterfalls. Rainbow Falls is the closest, but make the trip to Akaka Falls State Park.
Also worth the journey is Waipio Valley, one of the Big Island's most beautiful spots.
Time and nature have taken their toll on Hilo. But what they have left behind is something very rare in the islands these days: a piece of real Hawaii.